Hello, Welcome to Three Arrow Farm, home of the Mountain Man
Kennels. I’m Bud Moore and I have been raising and campaigning major circuit
pointing dogs for over 50 years.
Introduction
Introducing the
Barrel
Notice we start out looking at our barrel. Our barrel is stable, in a metal angle iron frame. Very inexpensive to have welded and fabricated. It has a lip half way up, all the way around. When your dog jumps off, this lip gives it someplace to put its feet to keep from hanging itself. I like something rough on top of the barrel to give the dog something to stabilize itself. But not too stable, as you want the dog to be tense (high and tight). This is where you help Mother Nature (genes) and put some style into the stance of your dog. On this barrel we are going to teach your young dog that “whoa” means plant all four feet and do not move. You are going to use this barrel every day until with one command your dog stays put with style.
Notice we start out looking at our barrel. Our barrel is stable, in a metal angle iron frame. Very inexpensive to have welded and fabricated. It has a lip half way up, all the way around. When your dog jumps off, this lip gives it someplace to put its feet to keep from hanging itself. I like something rough on top of the barrel to give the dog something to stabilize itself. But not too stable, as you want the dog to be tense (high and tight). This is where you help Mother Nature (genes) and put some style into the stance of your dog. On this barrel we are going to teach your young dog that “whoa” means plant all four feet and do not move. You are going to use this barrel every day until with one command your dog stays put with style.
On the top bar we can have two bungie cords. One for the
collar, one for the flank if you think you need a flank collar. I like to put
my electric collar on the flank. These bungie cords are adjustable in length so
they can apply some pressure to keep the head up, yet allow the dog to jump if
and when he wants “to be a puppy”, yet does not allow him to escape. He is
always under your control.
We show you how close to have your barrel to the pigeon pole
and how to attach a cord to the pigeon so as not to harm the pigeon. When you
have your young dog standing right on the barrel, you will fly a pigeon in
front of him about 18 to 24 inches from his head. But that’s a later lesson.
Lesson # 1, Stand Still with
Style
Here we want to teach the young dog to stand still with
style. This comes in handy when you win a placement and get your dog lined up
for a picture. Never tell your dog a command more than once. When you keep
repeating “whoa” to get him to stop, which one do you want him to listen to and
which “whoa” to ignore? Do not teach your dog bad habits, like ignoring a
command.
Tell him, or in this case her, “whoa” every time you walk out front, but only once
when you walk out front.
This session should last about 10-15 minutes. Do this
several days in a row. It usually takes 3 or 4 sessions to get him to stand
still.
When after several sessions, he is standing still, now
introduce birds out front. This should take you back to day
one, as he will want to get off that barrel and get up close and personal with
those birds. When he moves, touch him once on the low setting, and only once,
with the electric collar. You are only reminding him, stand still, not
punishing him! Hands on – stroke – stroke – stroke! Then, tell him “whoa”, walk
out front and move the birds with your foot – a repeat performance will
probably happen. Touch with the collar, walk back and stroke, stroke, stroke.
After a couple of these sessions, you will have a high, tight, stylish, young
dog. Now you are ready to introduce the pigeon on the pole, out front.
Lesson #2, Pigeons
Attach a pigeon as shown and allow it to walk around on the
ground. Put your dog on the barrel, stroke it and tell it “whoa” one time as
you walk out front. Point your finger, palm down, and walk to the pigeon. Look
at your dog all the time. Do not allow any movement. If you have any movement,
go back to the last lesson. Repeat the “stand still” lesson.
When you can walk out front of the pigeon and your dog
stands still, pick up the pigeon, looking at your dog. Gently throw the pigeon
at the dog. The pigeon will fly a circle right in front of the dog. He will
probably lean in and snap or jump at the pigeon the first time. If this
happens, touch with the e-collar, go back to him, restack him and stroke,
stroke, stroke. Repeat this lesson only 3 times and put the dog up. Repeat
every day, once a day, until the dog will stand still with the pigeon flying in
his face. When he will stand on the barrel for you to fly pigeons, you can
introduce the gun.
Lesson #3, Introducing the Gun
With your dog “barrel-wise” and “pigeon broke”, now you can
introduce a gun shot. I like a 22 caliber pistol and shoot nail gun loads that
can be purchased at any lumber yard. They come in several strength levels
(noise intensity). Start out with a box
of the lowest level as they will produce the least percussion (ear drums) and
noise. They are also not as expensive as regular blanks.
Put your pup on the barrel and fly one pigeon for him.
Reward good behavior by stroking him. Now go back out front and fly another
pigeon. Just as the pigeon gets past your pup on his circle (as close as you
can react), fire one shot only. Point the pistol behind you so the noise and
percussion goes away from you and the pup. Then walk back to the pup and stroke
– stroke – stroke.
I like to change pigeons every three flights as this keeps
them fresh and flying good, close circles. After 3 or 4 of these sessions, you
are ready to check cord and let your pup point his own birds.
Until next time… Bud
Article first published in 2011, updated July 2014
Article first published in 2011, updated July 2014
